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Filoxenia, Alos

 


Today's long drive took us up over the mountains to the far south-western corner of Crete to the famous pink beach at Elafonisi. On arrival the beach didn't seem very pink and the large gentleman playing his choice of music through an equally large, and totally unnecessary, amplifier was a bit of a concern. However, after wading through knee deep water to the beautiful Elafonisi Island the drive seemed worth every mile. Except perhaps the unplanned detour through Kissamos where the navigator didn't navigate. A swim was undertaken by all in the party and with a speed that set a new record for cold water entry. The wetsuit clearly worked as designed.

The trip home was broken in the village of Alos at the taverna Filoxenia. Being the first Saturday in Aprilit was their first day of service since closing for the winter and consequently several of the dishes we initially selected were unavailable. This proved not to be a problem and once we had completed the ritual discussion of whether we we ordering a light lunch or our main meal if the day our choices from the available items were made.

Naturally there was bread, oil and vinegar. Then some ever popular Saganaki, a warm 'cake' filled with cheese made from the milk of an indeterminate mammal, one portion of local sausages, one portion of lamb cutlets.

These were washed down with a beer and the local 'tea' that was actually a tassain made from local herbs and honey. This last was met with differing opinions. One didn't like it and thought it tasted like the herbal body wash found in hotel spas, the other did and described it as reminiscent of the stuffing eaten with roast chicken.

We have clearly learned about portion sizes as this almost exactly the desired quantity of food, especially as it was followed by the compulsory complementary dessert, which in this case was an orange and almond cake topped with dessicated coconut (removed by some) a soaked in an orange syrup. No local firewater on this occasion.

The restaurant was pleasant with business ticking over nicely. The ubiquitous stray cats were not too bothersome and, indeed appreciated in some quarters, but the owner's handsome Husky did yelp a bit.

Not fine dining but good food at a very reasonable price in a place that felt like the real Crete.

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