Big Jolene, Hornsey Road N7

No, not a reference to Dolly Parton but one of a small but growing chain of bakeries. This one was visited on one of our birthdays for a light lunch, with and as recommended by the youngest of the next generation who, being a hip Londoner, knows a thing or two about eateries in the northern parts of that great city.

It is set out in a communal, table-sharing style with views into the kitchen. The menu changes daily as ingredients vary with the seasons, or so we were told and have no reason to doubt.

The food is served in a tapas / sharing plate arrangement which is good because it not only encourages more dishes to be tasted, but also allows the diners to order a bit more without feeling greedy.

Between the three of us we sampled a good range of pizza fritta (a bit like a calzone), broad bean soup, fresh salads, focaccia with something akin to chorizo, and some smoked coppa. This was all washed down with either kombucha or IPA, gender dependent.

It would have been rude not to try the cinnamon buns and the cream cakes, so they were added and then finished with 'tasty filter coffee'. Filter coffee is usually to be avoided, especially if it is prepared in advance and left to spoil on a hotplate, but this was as the waiter had suggested, tasty.

We would go again for a lunch or even just a coffee and a cake as the atmosphere was comfortable, the service friendly and efficient and the food interesting and well-prepared.

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